Sunday, February 18, 2024

Lime Sprinkle Is A Top!--Post 2

Auditioning the upper left corner

Goal number 10 on my February list was to get the project I started in an Irene Rodrick workshop to a top. I have had so much fun piecing this top. I was stuck with what to do in the last corner. I originally planned to use solid black. . .then decided that approach would be too much black. I thought about Improv piecing log cabins--I wasn't feeling that shape. I wasn't making progress.

Pieced left corner
This week, I decided I'd determine what fabric color was going to be in that corner. I'd already determined it wasn't black. I auditioned a piece of gray, no. . .I had gray on the right side of the project already. That left red. I hadn't considered red because I have so much of that color in the quilt already.

When I stepped back after placing a chunk in that space, that color felt "right." Then it was what to insert in the red. I decided that I would piece in some wider strips using black. I'd end up with triangle shapes.

I did no measuring. I didn't use a ruler. I free hand sliced the red fabric and began piecing the black strips. I did use a ruler to trim the edges. Once I had sewn the section, I decided that the piece was stronger without the checkerboard strip.

From my previous post, I had the top right section together as well as the right lower section. I also had a partially sewn seam that linked the left to the right. 

I decided the project which I'm calling Lime Sprinkle, was ready to become a top. (I'm planning to share it with my modern small group as an answer to their lime twist challenge. The rules were 24 inches wide by 48-60 inches long. Lime fabric has to be visible on the front of the quilt. Kintsugi--the art of using gold to repair broken pottery should be present. Piecing should be Improv either curved or straight.)

I pieced chunks together, In the photo below, I shared my stitching path. In a short time, I had the top together. .  .well. . .sort of. . .There were a couple spots that waved! I altered those areas. I added a little more Improv piecing. 

Order in which I stitched the sections
Then I trimmed the top to resemble a rectangle. I liked it and proclaimed the top was finished. Then that checkerboard talked to me. Well, Gertie, my inner squirrel, was the one who was listening to the checkerboard chatter. The following morning, I auditioned the checkerboard at the bottom right of the top. It looked like it wanted to live there. I believe I have captured the theme of maximalism (more is more) in this project!

All the sections stitched together

I added a strip of black to the checkerboard to get the section to fit the bottom of the top. I stitched it. Now. . .it is a finished top, Bonus. . .I've even selected the back fabric and determined that the project will be faced. Now on to the layering and basting!

Finished top
I'm linking to Cynthia at Oh Scrap/Quilting Is More Fun Than Housework. There is always lots of inspiration of what others are doing with scraps and bits!



Wednesday, February 14, 2024

Free Hand Curves---Post 1

Fabric choices
Goal number six on my February list was to attend a Cindy Grisdela workshop. Last weekend, I attended her two day on line Free Hand Curves workshop. One might think that in six hours of class with sewing time after, a number of blocks would be created. Several people in class did create multiple blocks. I made parts and sort of finished one block.

The beginning of a curve
I did add to my bag of techniques and at some point, I will finish my start. The piece will be small. Perhaps, a little larger than four blocks.

Parts waiting to be added to a block
Building the parts, took more effort than I had thought. I didn't have many scraps to piece as leader and enders nor did I have chunks of scraps to build into bigger parts. Perhaps, these parts will find a home in the project or maybe not. 

Blocks at the end of class
I used a ruler to cut the initial square of fabric and to square the block. Otherwise, I free hand cut the fabric. I used burnt orange, lighter orange and a dark green, all colors not ones I often use, to help me broaden my palette. 

I didn't find the joy in this class like I did in Irene Roderick's class. Perhaps, using a palette instead of two colors as a start had something to do with it. Perhaps, the multitude of ums from the teacher clicked something in my brain to make me feel the effects of that car accident again. Who knows. . I did get a terrible headache and was nauseous at the class end each day. Such a weird set of symptoms as classes should be fun and headache free!


Sunday, February 11, 2024

Swimsuit Tutorial

Cut the fabric so the greater stretch goes
around the body or crosswise
This is a long post.

Several people have asked me to share how I sew a swimsuit. I've made swimsuits for myself, my kids and now my grandkids. I made my first swimsuit during my first pregnancy. I learned the tips of stitching suits from my mom who taught a number of adult education classes, Swimwear was one class she taught! She made my suits when I was in high school.

My patterns are 35 to 40 years old. Mostly they are Stretch N Sew; but, there are a few Kwik Sew and even a Butterick! In addition to choosing a pattern size that reflects your bust, hip and waist measurements, you also need to look at the overall measurement. If you've ever had a suit that made you feel shorter, or pulled on your shoulders, likely, the overall measurement was too small. 

Crotch front compared to crotch back
Your overall measurement is the distance from your crotch to over one shoulder. The tape goes around your whole body: front, back and breast. The measurement reflects the depth of your body. A suit with the correct overall measurement is comfortable to wear for hours and hours. I lengthen my suits a couple of inches because over the years, I've gotten much thicker through the middle!

Crotch seam pinned and ready to sew
Once you've selected your pattern, made the necessary adjustments and drawn the pattern on tissue paper or some other pattern type paper; it's time to cut out your suit. Swimwear fabric stretches in both directions. Often the lengthwise and crosswise stretch are the same. Sometimes, there is a difference. Pay attention to the stretch. You want the crosswise stretch going around your body. If you make
a suit with the stretch going vertically, it is uncomfortable and difficult to get on and off.
Stitching the crotch with a 5/8" seam

Some people say not to poke holes in swimwear fabric and to use weights to cut out the pattern pieces. I use sharp pins and don't have issues. I have used pattern weights too and both ways work. If you want to line a suit, cut out your lining now as well. The lining fabric has stretch too so treat it just like you did your swimwear fabric with the greatest stretch going around your body. If you are lining your suit, you won't need to cut a crotch lining piece.

The suit I'm making in this tutorial isn't lined. In this case, there is a crotch lining which is a small pattern piece. Sometimes people are concerned about the crotch seam because the back of the fabric piece is larger than the front of the pattern piece. This is normal. You will pin the sides and then ease the pieces to fit.

For this suit, I've pinned the front and back crotch seams right sides together. I've added the crotch lining, right side to the wrong side of the back crotch. Use a cotton or cotton/poly thread. I used the stretch thread and found it didn't hold up well to the chlorine.

With an 80/20 needle, I stitched with a 5/8" seam allowance stretching it as I stitched. If you find the needle causing little runs in the fabrics, you could try a ball point needle. I've used universal, sharp and ball point needles. All worked. I am a Schmetz needle fan.

Serging the seam

Stretching the seam allows the seam to take stress when you are putting the suit on and taking it off. If you hear popping noises, you are ripping stitches which means that suit isn't going to wear well! Don't panic if you hear those noises the first time you wear it, you do sew the seam a second time. I use a stitch length of 3.5.

Serged crotch seam
Then I serged the seam, leaving a quarter inch seam allowance. The serger is set up to in normal stitch mode. If you don't have a serger, stitch the seam a second time. I don't stretch the seams much when I serge and that works fine. I was asked about using the stretch stitch in my machine. I have used it years ago. When I purchased a serger, it was faster to straight stitch and then serge. That stretch stitch is not a stitch that you want to rip!

(If you are lining your suit, you will follow the same steps except you won't have the crotch lining piece in the mix. You will sew the front and the back of the suit together. You will repeat that step for the lining.) 

Crotch lining edges pinned in place
Then, I flipped the crotch lining piece to the front of the suit. The crotch seam is enclosed. From the right side, I pinned the edges together. Later the elastic will enclose these edges.

Stitch 1/4 inch away from crotch seam
I stitched a quarter of an inch away from the crotch seam. This holds the fabric in place. 

Crotch seam view from the wrong side of the suit
This is what the seam looks like from the wrong side of the fabric.

Stretching the fabric as I sew
Next, stitch the side seams and the shoulder seams using a 1/4 seam. Stretch the side seams in front and in back of the needle as you sew. The more you stretch, the more give the seam will have when putting the on and pulling it off.

1/4" seam. Don't sew over pins!
Sometimes people are concerned after stretching the seam that the stitch looks a bit wonky. That is okay. Next serge of stitch the seam a second time. (If you are lining your suit, repeat for the lining.)

View of the stitched and serged seam
If you are lining your suit, place the lining wrong sides next to the wrong sides of the suit. Pin around all openings: arm holes, neck and leg opening. With another color of thread, Baste the edges together using a long basting stitch. Stretch as you stitch. Trim the lining close to the basted stitching. 

Roll of 3/8" elastic
Now it is time for elastic insertion. The pattern instructions will give you guidance on how much elastic to cut and what size to use. I use 3/8 inch swimwear elastic. I bought a roll of it on line years ago. This elastic holds up better to the pool chemicals. Manufactures often use clear elastic as it is less bulky than the elastic in the photo. I haven't stitched with that so I can't comment on its use.

Setting used to sew elastic ends together
Most of the patterns will say to use a one to one stretch for the neck and armhole openings. I like the elastics to fit more snuggly to my body so I cut the pieces at least one and half inches less than the measurement of the opening.

Stitching in progress
When I sew the ends of the elastic together, I butt the edges together and I use a zigzag stitch. I snapped a photo of the setting that I used. I butt the edges together because it reduces bulk. I stitch back and forth several times to secure the join.

Edges joined together
This is what it looks like when the edges are joined together.

Divide the elastic into quarters
For the armhole and neck openings, I divide the elastic into quarters with pins. I then divide the suit opening (neck or armhole) into quarters. I change the position of my needle and lengthen my stitch length and narrow the zigzag width. For the first round of stitching, I move my needle all the way to the right. (The photo shows the needle position for the second round of stitching. I forgot to take a photo of the machine setting for the first round!)

Setting that I use 
I pin the elastic to the wrong side of the suit matching the quarter marks. When I begin stitching, I stretch the fabric in front and behind the needle as well as position the edge of the elastic about one eighth inch inside the edge of the fabric. My goal is to stitch on the outside edge of the elastic. Honestly, I feel like I did as a kid when I would pat my stomach and rub my head! 

Needle and elastic position on the fabric
The reason I want to stitch so close to the outer edge of the fabric is because the elastic will fit better against the body and the suit will be more comfortable to wear. If there is a little fabric to the outside of the elastic, the finish looks nicer.

Example of the first row of stitching
You can stitch with a straight stitch or you could apply the elastic with a cover stitch if you have access to serge that contains that stitch. I find the zigzag has less popping when I wear the garment. My serger doesn't have a cover stitch. For years, I've stitched with a wider zig zag because I felt more stitches equaled more stability. I like how the narrower zig zag looks and I haven't had an issue with thread popping.

Second row of stitching applying elastic
Once you finish the first application of the elastic, the second stitching is simple. You will turn the elastic to the inside of the suit and stitch again. This time, you stitch on the inside edge of the elastic.

One to one ratio (top of curve)
Applying the leg opening elastic is a little different. First, I make the elastic at least two inches less than the leg measurement. Second, I apply the elastic to the front of the leg opening at a ratio of one to one. As I approach the back of the leg opening, I stretch the elastic to the maximum possible. I stretch the swim fabric too. I stretch in front of the needle as well as behind the needle.

Stretching the elastic
This stretching the back of the leg opening is the key to eliminate the uncomfortable issue of the suit riding up your backside. Once you've finished the first application, then turn the elastic to the inside and stitch again. 

Note more gathering on the left side of the 
photo. This is the back of the leg.
If you lined your suit, all the openings are now enclosed. You can remove the basting stitches. I use a different colored thread so that it is easy to see which thread to pull. 

Finished leg opening. Note more gathers 
in the fabric next to the table. This is the
back of the leg opening.
You've completed stitching your suit! Put it on. Notice how it feels. Make notes to improve the fit of the next one that you make.

Finished back
There is no more of this fabric left. I used it all. My stash use will stand at negative 6.75 yards because I made this suit out of the other half of the quarter yard that I made the new baby suit that I posted about last month. Finishing this suit was goal number 15 on my February list.

Finished front
I'm linking to Cynthia at Oh Scrap/Quilting Is More Fun Than Housekeeping. Go visit. There is so much inspiration there!


Wednesday, February 7, 2024

Quilt Entries


Zip tie loop option for hanging
Goal number two on my February list was to enter my quilts in the Clark County Quilters show/Quiltfest Northwest which will be held April 4-6, 2024. This year, the guild provided an online method to enter our quilts. While it has some issues for the entrant, I believe the online entry process will help organizers categorize the quilts and organize them much faster. 

Close up of Fly Home
I entered four quilts. My entries are: 42 Minis--display only as the past presidents of the guild are showing the quilts that they made with the blocks the members gave them at the end of their term. Nuggets--an entry representing our Thread Tales group and the book "Where the Forest Meets the Stars." Lone Star Modern Contemporary--entered in the pieced category. Lime Sprinkle--an entry representing the Lime Twist Challenge through the small group Mod Squad. I need to finish Lime Sprinkle. . .it isn't even a top. . .yet!!!!

In January, the Portland Modern Guild put out a call for entries to display quilts at the Vancouver Public Library. This is my second year as a member. I haven't made a project from a workshop or a challenge. . .but, using books as inspiration, I have created a few modern looking quilts. I thought what better place to display book inspired quilts than a library! 

Close up of Circling the Sun
I entered four quilts. Crossroads (The Time Traveler's Wife), Rue (The Hunger Games), Fly Home (The All Girl Filling Station's Last Reunion) and Circling the Sun (West with the Night.) A few days after I entered, I received notification that all FOUR of the quilts were accepted! I was excited!! I hope that I can see the quilts hanging at the library. I am humbled and honored to have been selected.

Close up of Crossroads
To hang the quilts, we are to provide a wooden slat or dowel with a hole drilled at each end that fits the sleeve of our quilt. We were to insert a zip tie into the hole and create a loop. The loop will fit the hook in the
library's hanging system. We could have also used a wooden slat or dowel that a contains screw with an eye. I went with the zip tie option.

I'm happy to share my work. Fifteen years ago, I wanted to stitch an award winning quilt. I thought I had stitched a winner. I showed it in a couple of smaller shows. I entered it in big shows; but, it was not selected to hang. The judge's comments were similar. There was one section of the quilt that drew criticism.

Close up of Rue
It was then that I had a decision to make. Stitch quilts that the judges will like or stitch quilts the way I like. I stopped entering national shows. I share quilts at the county fair and at the guild shows.

I  appreciate other artists and quilters when they share their work. Seeing my work hung creates a feeling of amazement within my soul. I've spent hours working closing on the project. When I view it hanging, I grin because the overall impact is what I haven't seen working so closely on it!

Putting my work in the public eye, also places me in a vulnerable position, Some attendees can be overheard saying the most unwelcome comments. I am choosing to be brave! The best quilt shows/displays are the ones that share quilts with a variety of techniques and made with various levels of difficulty. Goal number 14 on my February list was to write a post sharing the acceptance news.

In the header on my blog, I have tabs for completed quilts and books read. I have a tab labeled Thread Tales Quilts. This is where I've listed the books our group has read over the years. Corresponding to the book, I've noted a response. Often, there is a completed quilt listed with a link to read the story about the project.

Sunday, February 4, 2024

January Recap and February Goals

My January goals were:
A few fabrics used for the kitchen towel

✖1. Finish the Farm Quilt--made a little progress on the quilting..
✖2. Get the Color project to a top--no progress..
✔3. Complete the January lesson regarding my embroidery software.
✖4. Audition backgrounds for the RSC. Solid fabric doesn't "feel" right to me. I have a fat quarter pack of a line of fabric. Many of the fabrics read as a solid; but, are in fact a 
print with a small motif. Auditioning a few different pieced units may give me the idea of what sort of fabric will make me feel happy!
Finished kitchen towel
✔5. At least, make squares of selvages in the RSC color for the month which is green.
✔6. Make progress on Indigo Way. post 1,
✖7. Organize the stack of magazines on the studio floor.--I'll put it off until next month!
✔8. Be available to help Miss K make progress on her string quilt.
✔9, Make progress on the half diamond shapes on my 2023 temperature quilt.
Fabrics for a kitchen towel
✔10.  Stitch a few decorative kitchen towels--made one, I'll make at least another one next month.. I've now used negative 6.5 yards of stash from my stash.  
✔11. Begin the Modern mystery with Weeks Ringle and Bill Kerr.
✔12. Make a swimsuit for a new baby coming sometime
this month!
✖13. Begin a quilt for someone who is having heart surgery in a week, Three months after her heart surgery, she will begin treatment for kidney cancer.---I've thought about it; but, haven't come up with a design.
✖14. Start making blocks for the 2024 Temperature Quilt.
✔15. Make a block for the outgoing President of the Mt. Hood guild.
✔16. Spend a Sunday making greeting cards.
✔17. Attend an Irene Rodrick workshop.

Get back to the Secret Agent Mystery
Seventeen goals was too many; but, I listed them to appease my inner squirrel, Gertie. She is beginning to join me more often in the studio. She often whispers "what if" questions in my ear. It's nice to feel her presence again. I've actually missed her!

In January, I made progress. I stretched myself in a few different ways. It was a good month. I am still working every week day helping my department until a replacement can be hired. The work environment is great. The work is varied and not difficult; but, not easy either. However, I am missing studio time when I'm at work! 

Add this little block into my project
I began in an Irene Rodrick class
Also, I've reduced my home screen time because after being on a screen at work for most of the time I'm there, I need a break. It has been a challenge to work through my embroidery lessons!

I've had four weeks of physical therapy on my knee. I have a little more flexibility and I feel more stable on my feet. I haven't felt the need of using the cane. The amount of pain though hasn't lessened. In some ways, the pain is worse. Likely, I'll be living with the pain until after my knee replacement surgery which may occur in June. Yes, it is a long wait. It's a long wait for several reasons. One reason being a shortage of anesthesiologists. 

My list of goals for February are:
1. Work on the Farm Quilt.
2. Enter my quilts for the Clark County Quilters Northwest Quilt Fest quilt show which is April 4. Entries are due February 8.
3. Complete the February embroidery software lesson.
Fabrics ready for the Griselda workshop
4. Make selvage squares in the Rainbow Scrap Challenge color of the month which is red.
5. Add the half diamond filler blocks to the lower edge of my 2023 Temperature quilt.
6. Attend a Cindy Griselda workshop.
7. Make progress piecing the blocks together for Indigo Way.
8. Make progress on the Modern Mystery quilt along with Bill Kerr and Weeks Ringle.
9. Be available for a sew day with Miss K.
10. Finish the top that I started in the Irene Rodrick workshop.
11. Organize that stack of magazines on the floor.
12. Make another kitchen towel. I'm determined to figure out the process without having to tune into the video each time! 
13. Consider piecing a few blocks for the 2024 Temperature quilt!
14. Write a post sharing the quilts accepted to show at the Vancouver public library in March.
15. Make a birthday swimsuit for my youngest granddaughter.

Again, I've listed too many goals to complete but at least this year, we get an extra day this month. Let's see what happens! I'm linking up to Cynthia at Oh Scrap/Quilting Is More Fun Than Housework.

Wednesday, January 31, 2024

Swimsuit For A Baby Finished

My niece delivered her daughter on January 23. Her little girl joins a one and a half year old brother. I had finished a flannel quilt months ago to be a quilt for this baby. Additionally, I decided to sew a swimsuit for my niece's little girl. 

Fabric cut out for the swimsuit
This is fabric my friend Martha gave me. Initially, I made a suit for my middle granddaughter. It is such a fun kid fabric. Last Sunday, not only was I able to sew a size two swim suit out of the scraps, I was able to cut out a size four swimsuit out of the remaining pieces! Next month, I'll sew that one for my youngest granddaughter's birthday.

Finished swim suit
Last night, I stitched the label for the flannel quilt. I've readied the quilt and suit for mailing. My husband will mail the package tomorrow. Making the swimsuit was goal number 12 on my January list. I used a quarter yard of fabric; but, I purchased seven yards of solid fabrics earlier this month so I've used negative 6.75 yards from my stash.


Sunday, January 28, 2024

Dancing with the Wall--An Irene Rodrick Workshop--post 1

Auditioning the triangles
Goal number 17 on my January list was to attend an Irene Rodrick workshop. Our Portland Modern Quilt Guild sponsored the Zoom workshop. It's been years since I've taken a workshop from a national teacher. It was the first time that I've taken a Zoom workshop.

Progress at the end of four hours
The title of the workshop was Dancing with the Wall. The idea is to design your quilt from the center out. We were to start with two colors of fabric. Once we placed a component on the wall unless we were adding to it or altering it in some way, we didn't move it.

I tried freehand piecing curves. I liked it. I liked making curvy lines, skinny lines and beads. Irene defined Improv as unplanned. I could wrap my head around that definition. While in class, my goal was to give each element a try. If I had an issue, I could always ask Irene for help.

At the end of the first four hours, I was enjoying the process and actually having fun. By the beginning of the second day, I had mapped out how large I wanted to make my piece. I often use selvages to mark the dimensions I want my quilt to be. I had placed  a couple more components in the piece. I had started piecing a large component. 

Sans the black equals progress at the end
of eight class hours.
A focus of the second day was to help us learn how to engineer the components so that we could sew them together. Because I've pieced backs with bits, chunks and slabs of leftover fabrics and leftover blocks, I wasn't concerned about filling my space so I could envision how to engineer the stitching.

Progress at the end of Saturday
I spent the day making more blocks or pieces. It was great to see other people's creations. I was not happy with my fabric choices. As my fabrics were too close in value. I knew this when I started. Had the weather been cooperative, I would have purchased another piece to go with one of these. The supply list said two yards of two
contrasting fabrics.

I've been purchasing solid fabrics in one yard pieces. I had a white, a black or a yellow; but, I wasn't into a color combination that could be made with those fabrics. I figured after class I would add more color and make a project that I liked.

After class, I auditioned black as another color. I liked the effect the black gave. I do plan to use lime green in two small places and a lame gold in one other spot. My small modern group has issued a challenge using lime green, gold, and skinny lines in some way.

This week, I've played or as Irene would say, danced with the wall a little bit more. I've made components and auditioned some background fabrics. I've a ways to go yet, but, I'm making progress. The upper left bare corner will likely be solid black. I'm waiting for inspiration to hit for the other bare area.

I'm liking the piece better with the addition of the black fabric. If you want to learn more about the process I used, check out Irene's book, "Dancing with the Wall." I'm linking this post to Cynthia at Oh Scrap/Quilting Is More Fun Than Housework.